Last Updated on July 10, 2023
This past Christmas was our second Christmas with our daughter, Isabella, and the first Christmas during Corona in which travel both within and outside of Germany was allowed. We decided to try for a white Christmas this year and spend the holiday in the most ‘Christmasy’ place of all: Bavaria. Germany really does Christmas like no other country, and Bavaria, a region in southern Germany is the shining star. The Christmas markets in Bavaria are world famous (although they were cancelled this year, again). While we were not able to show my family the best Christmas markets, as originally planned, we still had a wonderful time touring enchanting villages, visiting castles, skiing, and of course, feasting on Bavarian cuisine. Read below for a complete itinerary of how to spend Christmas in Bavaria, Germany.
Where is Bavaria?
First of all, when traveling to Germany, one should be aware that there are different regions, all of which operate under slightly different rules and regulations (especially relevant during times of Corona). Bavaria is located in the south east of Germany, and its capital city is Munich, which is especially famous for its Oktoberfest. Bavaria is home to some of the most famous Christmas markets, such as the Nuremberg Christmas Market, which is one of the oldest and most famous in the world. Rothenburg ob der Tauber is also in Bavaria, and only one hour driving from Nuremberg. Rothenburg is one of the most well-preserved medieval towns in Germany and was also thought to be the inspiration for the Disney film Pinocchio. Its charming cobblestone streets and colorful buildings make it a must visit – it may be the most beautiful town in all Germany.
Related Post : How to Experience Oktoberfest in Munich | A First-Timer’s Guide
How to Spend Christmas in Bavaria, Germany: Where to Stay?
Use Nuremberg as your home base and plan day trips to the surrounding towns
We rented an airbnb in the city center of Nuremberg, which was perfect for our group of 5 adults and a baby. We stayed 5 nights in Nuremberg and spent Christmas Eve and Christmas Day there in the Airbnb. I would highly recommend staying in an apartment, rather than separate hotel rooms, for Christmas. We had a Christmas tree, put up stockings and were able to spend much more time together in the living and dining room. This would not have been possible in separate hotel rooms. Nuremberg is well located in Bavaria so that you can reach most other towns of interest in one hour or less by public transport or car. It is a two hour train from Munich airport, and a three hour train from Berlin (direct) making it quite easily reachable no matter where you arrive in Germany.
Beware that all restaurants are closed on Christmas Eve and most of Christmas Day
On Christmas Eve Day and Christmas Day almost everything is closed in Germany, including restaurants. This made having a kitchen to cook very important. Grocery stores also close around midday, so plan accordingly. On Christmas Eve we took a cooking class online, which was a lot of fun. On Christmas Day, we cooked breakfast and lunch at home and then went to dinner at 6:00 pm to Brasserie Nitz, a french restaurant in Nuremberg.
How to Spend Christmas in Bavaria, Germany: What to Do & Where to Eat
Visit charming villages and Christmas Markets in Bavaria and feast on local cuisine
We originally planned our trip with the intention of visiting Christmas Markets. Unfortunately, due to the rising number of cases in Germany and Bavaria, the Christmas Markets were cancelled in Bavaria and most other regions in Germany. However, we did not let this deter our plans. See below our complete itinerary:
December 21st – Arrive in Nuremberg by train from Berlin (3 hours) and Munich (2 hours). Spend the day at the Christmas Markets (if open). Have dinner at Albrecht-Dürer-Stube for the best Bavarian food in Nuremberg. Be sure to make a reservation ahead of time. Stay the night in Nuremberg.
December 22nd – Take morning train from Nuremberg to Bamberg (30 minutes), a charming town known for smoky beer. Eat traditional food and try the smoky beer at Kachelofen. My favorite dish here is a vegetarian mushroom dish. Visit the Christmas Markets. Return to Nuremberg by train in the evening.
December 23rd – Take two trains (there is no direct train) to Rothenburg ob der Tauber a lovely medieval town, most likely the most beautiful in all of Germany. Visit the Christmas Markets (if open) and wander the beautiful streets. Be sure to make a trip to Käthe Wohlfahrt, the most famous and beautiful German Christmas shop. It is originally from Rothenburg, so the shop there is particularly spectacular. Return to Nuremberg in the evening.
December 24th – Spend the 24th in Nuremberg. Be aware that everything closes at midday, so be sure to go to the grocery store early! We also went to a 3:00 pm church service at the Lorenzkirche, a beautiful Gothic Lutheran church in the city center. You needed to reserve a ticket (for free) ahead of time.
December 25th – Christmas in Nuremberg. Restaurants do not open until the evening, so be sure to do grocery shopping for breakfast and lunch. For dinner, be sure to make a reservation. We had Christmas dinner at a French restaurant called Brasserie Nitz. Be sure to make a reservation ahead of time.
December 26th – Leave Nuremberg. Rent a car and drive 3 hours to Neuschwanstein Castle, the fairytale castle that was the inspiration for the Walt Disney castle. Definitely take the baby stroller! It is a long trek and completely fine with a stroller. After hiking up to the castle, return to the car and drive 40 minutes to Oberammergau, a small town in the Bavarian Alps. Spend the next few nights here. We stayed in a bed & breakfast called Ammergauer Hof which was conveniently located less than 5 minutes driving from the ski slopes.
December 27th – Ski day in Oberammergau. You can rent equipment onsite for the day. The slopes at Oberammergau are perfect for beginners. For those who know how to ski it is a bit boring, as there is only one red slope. Stay the night in Oberammergau.
December 28th – Drive 25 minutes to the famous ski town of Garmish-Partenkirchen. We took the Wank cable car for a panoramic view of the Zugspitze and other surrounding mountains. We even saw families sledding at the top which looked like a lot of fun! Of course, you can also ski in Garmish-Classic, although we did not. Return to Oberammergau for the night.
December 29th – Travel day. My parents drove from Oberammergau directly to the Munich airport, and dropped off the rental car there. JC and I took the train to Bichlbach, Austria from Garmish-Partenkirchen for the next leg of our journey.
And that is how we spent Christmas in Bavaria! It was a wonderful trip and we were able to show my family many of the highlights, in our opinion, of Germany. It was definitely a plus to stay in Nuremberg for five nights and do day trips from there. This way we were not packing and unpacking every night. Seeing Neuschwanstein and skiing the last days was an added plus. If you are interested to see how these towns look like when there are Christmas Markets, be sure to check out our post here from 2018.
Related Post: Where to Go for the Best German Christmas Markets
